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On the Kirkland Waterfront: Stellar view plus good food equal the Third Floor Fish Cafe
By Doug Margeson
Journal Reporter
January 19, 2007
The Third Floor Fish Cafe has the three things a Kirkland restaurant is supposed to have: Location (as in downtown Kirkland, which is trying to become Carmel North), view (as in Lake Washington in the afternoon sun) and food, as in good food which, in its absence, would make the other two irrelevant.
The cafe must be doing something right. It's been at the same location for 10 years, a long time by upscale restaurant standards, and its appeal shows no signs of disappearing.
As its name indicates, it specializes in seafood, which is one of the more challenging forms of cooking around.
"There is a short duration between done and overdone, it's easy to miss, it varies from fish to fish and you have to monitor your heat constantly. A margin for error is almost nonexistent," said Greg Campbell, owner and executive chef.
But it's worth the trouble, he said. If it swims, the cafe probably knows how to cook it. The menu features everything from calamari to ahi tuna to oysters to Alaskan halibut. To keep things from getting too single-minded, the cafe also serves a mint and cilantro spiced rack of lamb and beef tenderloin with brandy-glazed cremini mushrooms. Campbell and his crew are fussy about how they cook them, too. But the fish, ah, the fish. They are the real challenge.
"Every one is different," Campbell said. "You have to cook sturgeon all the way through. With halibut, the difference between undercooked and overcooked is a matter of seconds. You can season scallops almost any way you want and they will taste great. But tuna needs a light touch; sometimes, just a little salt and pepper is perfect."
Two of Campbell's personal favorites are indeed scallops and tuna. The cafe's seared Alaskan sea scallops are served is a porcini mushroom broth and are accompanied a fresh vegetable ragout. The seared rare ahi tuna is sliced thin and served with ponzu mayonnaise, which is seasoned with soy, rice vinegar and lime juice.
"Truth is, I like everything we cook," Campbell said. "That's why they're on the menu. It's one of the perks of being the owner."
So, consider some of these:
APPETIZERS
Alaskan halibut cerviche. Raw halibut marinated in lime and severed with crisp tortillas and avocado
Cold smoked salmon with celery root remoulade
Manila clams steamed in ginger coconut broth with cilantro
ENTREES
Sesame-crusted king salmon with wasabi potato puree, glazed baby carrots and ginger beurre soy
Alaskan black cod with shiitake mushroom vinaigrette, nikko rice cake and mango reduction
Alaskan king crab legs, oven roasted with grilled vegetables and lemon butter sauce
DESSERTS
Bittersweet chocolate praline pate with port caramel sauce and praline Chantilly cream.
Tahitian vanilla bean creme brulee with chocolate biscotti
Key lime and toasted coconut Napoleon. Crispy phyllo layered with key lime and white chocolate cream with raspberry hibiscus sauce. |